Shekhawati, in the north of Rajasthan, is sometimes called the world’s largest open-air art gallery. Across the districts of Jhunjhunu, Sikar and Churu, hundreds of old mansions, called havelis, are covered in colourful wall paintings. They were built mostly in the 19th and early 20th centuries by wealthy merchant families, who spent their fortunes on homes, temples and step wells in their native towns.
What Makes the Havelis Special
Inside courtyards and on outer walls, painters decorated almost every surface. The subjects are surprising:
- Gods and legends: Krishna’s stories, scenes from the Ramayana and portraits of deities.
- Everyday life: Hunting scenes, festivals, marriage processions and village activities.
- Modern curiosities: Trains, cars, British officials and even early aeroplanes appear, showing how merchants viewed the changing world.
Many paintings were made with natural pigments in the traditional fresco style. Some havelis are well preserved, while others are fading, so visit with respect and avoid touching the walls.
Towns to Visit
- Mandawa: A compact town with many painted havelis and a fort that is now a hotel.
- Nawalgarh: Known for large havelis and a museum haveli where you can see rooms and murals in detail.
- Fatehpur: Quieter and less commercial, with many beautiful but weathered paintings.
- Jhunjhunu: Known for its havelis and temples.
- Dundlod, Ramgarh and Mahansar: Smaller towns with fine paintings, usually visited with a local guide.
A Simple Two-Day Plan
- Day 1: Base yourself in Mandawa or Nawalgarh. Walk through the lanes in the morning, when the light is soft, and visit one museum haveli.
- Day 2: Visit Fatehpur and nearby towns, then end with a sunset at a local temple or step well.
Practical Tips
- Hire a local guide. Many havelis are locked, and caretakers can open them for a small tip.
- Wear comfortable shoes for uneven lanes.
- Ask before entering private homes.
- Visit in winter. October to March is the best season.
- Respect the site. Do not write on walls or climb on old structures.
Combine With Other Stops
Shekhawati sits close to the blackbuck grasslands of Tal Chhapar and the pilgrimage towns in our Hindi guide to Khatu Shyam and Salasar Balaji. For a bigger circuit, see the classic 7-day route.
